Preserving, Protecting and Maintaining the Back Country

Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen: Access Advocates

Absarokee

Written by Laura Bailey

Photography contributed 

A few years back, on a hot, dusty September day, John Jenkins and a friend packed into the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness from the head of the Boulder River, south of Big Timber. They made their way to Lake Plateau, known for its excellent fishing, and set up camp. Then they headed out to fish - only to get skunked.

That night, a grizzly visited camp. “We had a huge fire going, and my mule, Easter, chased that grizzly out of camp three times,” John said. “We’d hear her stomp and snort. She kept the grizzly away all night and we got out of there fast the next day.” 

John is no stranger to the ever-present risks in the backcountry. He’s been packing in to destinations across the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness for a decade. He’s a member of the Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen and a past chapter president. John has ridden and packed with men and women in the chapter who have been at it much longer than he has. 

John has encountered bears before and since, but there’s no telling what may have happened that night if it weren’t for Easter.  

“I call her my guard mule,” John said. “She can identify a bear and go on-point 15 minutes before it comes out of the woods.” 

Mules are not stubborn. They’re just different than a horse, John explained. They have a greater sense of self- preservation, and they’re inclined to puzzle through what’s ahead of them rather than barrel through a sketchy situation. You need level-headed stock in the backcountry. 

“There are places you can go that are 30-40 miles from the trailhead and any sign of civilization. You can just disappear,” John said. “The wilderness is big country that is meant to be seen on horseback.” 

Members of the Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen live in communities around the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness, including Red Lodge, Columbus, Absarokee, Big Timber, Livingston, Gardiner, and beyond. It was established as a nonprofit in 1997 and is one of the oldest established chapters in Montana. There are about 60 members, and many are multi-generational members. 

“It’s just a bunch of people who love their horses and there’s always support for you- no matter if you’re new or your horse is new; or you’re old and your horse is old,” said Sarah Lewis, one of the chapter’s newest members. “There’s always someone to teach you and to support you.” 

Sarah has had horses her entire life and wanted to find another horseback activity. Two years ago, when she joined the Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen, she hoped to learn how to pack. 

Speaking from experience, many old timers say, “If you can ride it, you can pack it,” but the best pack stock are intelligent, easygoing, and calm. They are adaptable, catch on quickly, and trust their riders. 

Sarah has been working with her four horses and recently bought a mule who has packing experience. She’s learned a lot from him already. 

“The biggest thing is trust between horse and rider,” she said. “You just start off on trail rides so they can see all the scary stuff before they experience it on a pack trip.”

There are several techniques and various types of gear for packing. No one claims to be an expert on any of it; it’s just a matter of preference. Beginners have the opportunity to learn a variety of tips and tricks from other members in the chapter. 

Hoping to recruit the next generation of packers, the Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen host an annual Youth Trail Clinic with packing demonstrations and an obstacle course. While the event is set up for kids, adults are always welcome. 

The Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen are advocates for access. They are working on several projects with the US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management to maintain and connect trail systems in the forest and wilderness areas and establish horse trailer parking at trailheads. They’ve also helped clear trails alongside volunteers for the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation and hauled scientific gear into the backcountry for studies conducted by Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks. 

“We haul in hand saws and chain saws and cut back brush and remove downed trees,” John said. “We’ve supported trail crews by packing in all their gear and food and then come back in a week to pick everything up.” 

Members of the Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen share a common interest in preserving and protecting public lands. The packing tradition depends on it, and many other users reap the benefits of the work that the chapter has done in the backcountry. 

“If you use it, you should consider becoming involved in helping to maintain it,” John said. 

John and other members have calculated that their volunteer efforts over the years amount to about 70,000 hours, and at pay rates for skilled labor they estimate that they have contributed upwards of $14 million in support. 

“We want to be sure we have a say in public land management,” John said. “When we provide input, they listen to us.”  

Beartooth Backcountry Horsemen all share a love of the wilderness and camaraderie. When the backcountry calls, they saddle up, pack a string and hit the trail. 

“It opens up a world that you don’t get to see any other way,” Sarah said.